View to the Northwest from the Site of the Presidio, Showing Former Location of the Railroad Tracks
On the banks of the San Pedro River, a couple of miles north of the ghost town of Fairbank, Arizona, stand a few remnants of adobe walls. Their edges rounded and smoothed by over two hundred years of wind and rain, they bear little resemblance to the grand Spanish fort they were once intended to be. The beautiful land around them remains unpopulated and, for the most part, pristine. Pristine, that is, but for the ballast of what was once the railroad line that carried ore from the area's mines, some debris left by more recent visitors, and the tastefully-few signs and trails leading to the site of the old adobe ruins.
This site was once the Presidio Santa Cruz de Terrenate. Here, in the late 1700s, the Spanish military erected one of several forts - presidios - to serve as a system of defense against the native people, the Apache. In the typically cosmopolitan manner of the region, it was an Irish mercenary, Hugh O'Conor, who founded the fort in 1775 on behalf of the Spanish crown. The endeavor was hardly a success. The predations of the Apache were too persistent and deadly for the Spanish troops and by 1781, they admitted defeat and abandoned the still-incomplete presidio.
Named Terranate - Spanish for "land the color of masa (corn flour)" for the pale yellowish color of the earth - the presidio appears as one of ten Spanish fortifications on the 1777 Spanish map of the region, a portion of which is below:
Note the settlement called "Tuqulson" to the upper left of Terrenate. That is now the present-day city of Tucson; directly beneath it is "S. Xavier," - the Mission San Xavier del Bac, founded in 1692 by Padre Eusebio Kino. The Spaniards had maintained at least a nominal control of the territory since beginning their explorations in 1540. Although the area boasted abundant silver and gold, the Spanish were unable to effectively exploit the rich minerals due to the Apache attacks. From direct assaults on the troops to a campaign of stealing the Spaniards' horses or raiding the mule trains bringing much-needed supplies, the Apache made the forts impossible to defend.
The presidio at Terrenate was laid out with a main entry facing the San Pedro River and staffed by 56 men. Thick adobe walls were built to surround the fort, and within it, the hopeful settlers would plant crops and build a chapel, barracks, and commander's quarters. Early in the effort, on July 7, 1776, a raid on the fort resulted in the death of 30 men, including the commander, Francisco Tovar, himself. He was replaced by Captain Francisco Ignacio de Trespalacios, who'd arrived with reinforcements and additional supplies in August. The new captain lasted until the summer of 1778, when he and 19 others were killed in another assault on the presidio. His replacement, Lieutenant Colonel Pedro Fages, would be the final commander. As the fort's supply of horses - originally over 350 - dwindled to under 100, and troops were diminished to just 46 soldiers, the decision to abandon the fort was made by Inspector Roque de Medina. The location was too difficult to defend and too remote to be reliably provisioned. By 1780, the remaining men were relocated.
The Apache, meanwhile, used the plunder from the raids to facilitate their own raids on enemy tribes. From wearing the helmets and leather jackets of the soldiers they slaughtered to riding the Spanish horses, they employed the muskets and pistols of the fallen as well.
Remains of the Chapel Walls
Today, all that remains of the ill-fated presidio are portions of the walls of the chapel, commander's home, barracks, and front entry. Mounds of what had been adobe bricks dot the fort's footprint. Signs are present along the interpretive trail offering a brief history and identification of the ruins.
The Ruins of the Commandant's Quarters
Should you wish to visit the ruins of the presidio, access Highway 82 from Highway 80 (the road between St. David and Tombstone). Go west until you reach N. Kellar Road; turn right (north) and proceed until you see the parking lot / trailhead to the presidio on your right. The trail to the ruins is 1.2 miles of mostly flat and easily navigated terrain, but note that when you reach the railroad ballast (the foundation the tracks once sat upon), follow it to the right / east. On my recent visit there was no directional sign at the ballast. There is no water, shade, or other amenities, so be sure to dress appropriately, take water, and wear appropriate clothing. This means a hat to provide sun protection and proper shoes / boots that can handle the prickly things that the desert is famous for. In warmer weather (and it's usually warmer), snakes may be present. Respect the historic significance of the site and don't be the idiot who leaves this on the railroad ballast along the way:
While you're in the area, be sure to visit the nearby ghost town of Fairbank. More on that coming soon.
(c) 2022 Marcy J. Miller * All rights reserved * No part of this content, including photographs, may be reproduced without the express permission of the author * Links, however, may be freely shared and are appreciated * Thank you for visiting!
