Monday, December 26, 2016

Exploring the Historic Old Black Canyon Stagecoach Road and Arrastre Creek








The wall-like structure at center is the laid-in rock of the old stagecoach road.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller

Few mountain ranges intrigue and beckon to me as the Bradshaws, easily within sight on the northwestern horizon from my own home. Filled with ghost towns, old mining camps, stagecoach roads, ruins, and other echoes of the past, they are rich in history while still retaining stunning wild beauty. The Rock Gods have been generous to the Bradshaws: the terrain is daunting and in many places unforgiving, yet men have worked these mountains under harsh conditions in courageous efforts to yield minerals such as gold and silver. Many died.

Women - working girls - forded the water crossings and braved the elements to service the men at the mining camps. Some ended up respectably marrying miners. In these mountains, cavalry soldiers fought Indians; highwaymen robbed stagecoaches; cowboys picked their way through cholla and boulders to gather cattle; hunters sought mountain lions for bounty.

Setting out mid-morning
(c) 2016 MJ Miller
Our jaunt today was for pleasure, adventure, and research. It was the perfect sort of day: though cold and windy, it was sunny and clear. My companions in adventure were my friends Babs Sanders, her son Grant, and Grant's girlfriend Beth. Some guy who often accompanies me - Guitar Guy, also known as my husband Russ - rode shotgun with Grant. Babs and I were in her Polaris RZR, dubbed Ruby, and gutsy, petite Beth rode Gretchen the Quad.  

Is this historic Black Canyon Hill, the steepest hill on the old stage road? I'm not sure, yet. Accounts vary as to its location.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller
 Although much of my research for my current book-in-progress on Black Canyon City's history is conducting interviews, and much more is poring over old maps, documents, and newspaper archives, I'm not satisfied until I walk the ground I'm focusing upon. I want to feel the story, not just imagine it. I want to breathe the air and labor over the rocky terrain and know firsthand the distances and setting. This is arguably the greatest pleasure in what I do: site research. Hiking along an old stage road and seeing firsthand the ruts the narrow wheels left. Riding a horse down a steep ravine and imagining what it felt like to the first Anglo explorer to see these then-hostile lands. Hearing the rush of water draining from one creek into another. These give me, I hope, a better appreciation for what it took to make history in this area. They definitely give me a good excuse to be out in this utterly stunning scenery.

Another view of the rock support for the stagecoach road.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller
 We left the horses at home today - for which they'd thank me. Two weeks ago we tired them out on a steep leg of the stage road; today, we wanted to get farther into the canyon in considerably less time. As Babs said as we headed out, "I hate to see it, but this is going to be a lot more fun than on the horses."

(c) 2016 MJ Miller
 We were in search of several sites of historic interest: among them, Black Canyon Hill, described by contemporaries as the steepest hill on the Black Canyon Stagecoach Road, and what has been known as "the amazing Chinese diggings" on Arrastre Creek.

The gang hiking part of the old stage road that is long abandoned as a trail.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller
The old stagecoach road was originally cut by James Patterson, following what was known as "Woolsey's Trail" after Indian fighter and rancher King Woolsey.  Woolsey himself used old native footpaths for his trail between his upper and lower ranches, Agua Fria and Agua Caliente. Patterson, under contract to build the road, owned a stage stop in Prescott - then the territorial capital - and was a partner in the Patterson-LeValley Stage Line, among his other endeavors.


The old stagecoach road, with the wagon wheel ruts clearly visible over a hundred years later.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller
The roads Patterson built serviced not only travelers between Prescott and the emerging city of Phoenix, but miners working claims throughout the mountains.

The bare swath up the side of the mountain is leftover damage from the pipeline installation.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller
Many stagecoach robberies occurred on this road. The unforgiving land offered a unique opportunity for robbers: horses or mules, tired out as they climbed the hill, could not break away boldly to make a run for it, nor could the drivers possibly turn them around on the narrow roadway. At the same time, the peaks and outcroppings provided excellent vantage points or tactical positions for an armed accomplice to cover a driver.

A steep incline on the old road.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller


A geocache well hidden on the hill, away from the trail.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller
I hiked up the hill to assess strategic potential for would-be or actual stagecoach robbers. I was quite proud of myself for finding a geocache without actually looking for one - I don't geocache. Although we took none of the trinkets, I added something to the tin.

Husband-type-person checks the elevation and marks the spot of our potential Black Canyon Hill.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller

(c) 2016 MJ Miller
A light dusting of snow still lingered this late in the morning from the Christmas Eve storm.

(c) 2016 MJ Miller
As we worked our way down the hillside, we headed toward Paducci Creek and Paducci Flats.  Spelled variously as "Paduchee" or "Paduchi," the site once had several structures. 

(c) 2016 MJ Miller
 The last remaining building was a still-livable old house. It's rumored that a local character may have burned it down while cooking meth.

Paducci Creek making a horseshoe around Paducci Flats.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller

More laid-in rocks to support the stagecoach road.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller
The old - now abandoned - trail venturing down into the Paducci Flats area was long, steep and treacherous. We marveled that even the smart, sure-footed mules and burros could manage such slope.

(c) 2016 MJ Miller
 Arrastre Creek was so-named for the presence of many primitive "arrastres" - manually-operated structures that used mules, burros, horses - or men - to grind ore. "Arrastre" means "dragging" in Spanish, so describing the method of crushing the ore.

(c) 2016 MJ Miller
Chinese laborers worked the area's mining camps, appearing on 19th century census records as launderers or shop keepers.  Overt discrimination in California, including legislative action, made California a hostile place for the Chinese. They were far more welcome and better treated in Arizona territory. Along Arrastre Creek were some mines operated by the Chinese, referred to by locals as the "Amazing Chinese Diggings."


Fording the creek.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller

(c) 2016 MJ Miller

(c) 2016 MJ Miller

Here I am at what we believe might have been the Chinese diggings site.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller


This large, flat slab of rock was deliberately placed atop several round rocks. Who - or what - is beneath it?
(c) 2016 MJ Miller

Another view of the large slab of rock described above.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller


(c) 2016 MJ Miller
At the site of the possible diggings were the ruins of at least three structures. A considerable amount of blue slate - not from the immediate area - was discarded near the ruins. I suspect it was originally the flooring inside, as it was known to be used in other area ranch houses from the 1800s. You can also see thin pieces of it in the walls above and below.

(c) 2016 MJ  Miller
Two of the remaining ruins were small - as small as a Manhattan bedroom I once stayed in that had been converted from a walk-in closet - but still large enough to sleep in. It's the desert. As my mom used to say, who needs a huge house to dust?


The boulders along Arrastre Creek are a large part of its beauty.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller

Much of the year this creek is dry.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller


Two of our capable hosts, Grant Sanders and Beth.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller

Approaching the ruins.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller

Ruins along Arrastre Creek.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller
The largest of the ruins boasted a single room with a fireplace opposite the doorway. Just inside the entrance was a large, flat slab of blue slate on the remains of the floor.

Ruins of an old building at a ghost town along Arrastre Creek.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller

These mountains were described by a member of the Walker expedition as a "sterile and graceless quarter." I find them beautiful beyond description.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller

Babs Sanders and I. Note the epic photobombing by Babs' son, Grant.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller
The water crossings offered a little bit of adrenaline-inducing adventure to our travels. Not only were they flowing enough to cause us to use caution, but they made ample mud we had to work around. The heavy rains also washed out enough of the trail in places that we had a couple of unexpected jolts. My knee should be colorful tomorrow.

How many men does it take to fix a disabled quad? (Depends on how many are union and how many are government employees.)
(c) 2016 MJ Miller 

Possible ruins of the "Amazing Chinese Diggings."
(c) 2016 MJ Miller


(c) 2016 MJ Miller
Viewed from the site of an old, abandoned horizontal mine shaft and related ruins, the brown item at lower center in the photo above is the wreckage of a long-dead car. From the angles of the metal it looked like an old Model-T.

Remnants of an old mining operation.
(c) 2016 MJ Miller
The final point of interest we explored was the site of the old mine ruins. The horizontal shaft has been "enhanced" with a culvert, blocked by three pieces of rebar, at the mouth. No chance of wedging through them to risk life and limb to explore it ... or to discard a body, as has been done too often in the Bradshaw mine shafts. 

Our next planned jaunts include visits to an ancient fort used by the area's Hohokam Indians, a search for the site of the one-time mining community of Clemenceau, and down to Bumble Bee. In late spring we expect to take the old stage road all the way to Prescott - just as was once routinely traveled by visitors to and from the territorial capital.


Copyright (c) 2016 by Marcy J. Miller * All rights reserved * No part of this content, including photographs, may be reproduced without express permission of the author * However, links may be freely shared * Thank you for linking, liking, sharing, tweeting, posting, +1ing, and otherwise helping grow my readership * Most of all, thank you for stopping by.

Monday, November 28, 2016

Calling All Arizona History Enthusiasts - Upcoming Event!

Black Canyon City is a community with a surprisingly rich history - so rich I'm midway through the research for two books on the subject. Settled by miners and those who supported the mining operations, the town's past boasts stagecoach robberies, turn-of-the-century murders by highwaymen, felons and fugitives by the dozen, and unthinkable tragedies. The town's history is diverse; bring together miners, ranchers, homesteaders, and the occasional hermit, artist, and novelist, blend in quirky places and people, and toss together with the daunting forces of Arizona's weather and you're sure to have interesting tales.

 The townspeople today not only honor that history with the Old Cañon School Museum and its overseers from the Black Canyon Historical Society, but by cherishing and protecting many historical sites on private property such as several old homesteads and, notably, the ruins of Jack Swilling's stone house.

It's the perfect site to convene a gathering for Arizona history enthusiasts - and the authors who write on the subject. So irresistible, in fact, we're doing just that on December 3rd, 2016 at the First Annual Cañon Arizona History Book Festival.  We've invited several authors who represent some of the more unique and surprising aspects of the state's history to join us at Black Canyon City's Heritage Park from 1:00 to 3:30 in order to sign books and talk history with visitors.

A few of us (like myself) who've written historical books for Arcadia's "Images of America" series will participate.  If you had the good fortune to grow up in the valley in "the good old days," you likely have happy memories of the amazing Legend City - a unique theme park that boasted western-themed rides and setting.  John Bueker, author of Arcadia's "Legend City," will be on hand. Mr. Bueker also maintains a popular website on Legend City.

If you've driven the iconic Apache Trail, you'll want to get a copy of Richard Powers' book, also in the Arcadia series.  We are pleased Mr. Powers will be there to sign copies.  So will Jerry Cannon, structural engineer and author of "Arizona's Historic Bridges."  Mr. Cannon inspected the old I-17 bridge across the Agua Fria River at Black Canyon City after its collapse in 1978; I'm covering that tragedy in a chapter of my own upcoming book. I'll be there, too, of course - signing copies of "New River."

The "new" I-17 bridge over the Agua Fria that replaced the collapsed bridge.
Copyright (c) 2016 MJ Miller
Reflecting the diversity of our state history, David E. Brown will be on hand to sign copies of his books on the history of Arizona's wildlife and game management, including "Arizona Wildlife:  The Territorial Years 1863 - 1912."  Mr. Brown is a retired biologist and adjunct professor at ASU in addition to his work with Arizona Game and Fish Department.

Many old-timers and long-timers of the valley will fondly recall Jerry Foster, our pioneering pilot for 12 News in his news chopper Sky 12.  Jerry is Arizona history and was on-scene and directly involved in many of the biggest stories in the state back in the day. Jerry will join us to sign copies of his book, "Earthbound Misfit" along with Dee Dees, his co-author.  Dee will also sign copies of her book on writing your own life story - "Write Your Life Story in 28 Days" - for those who want to document their personal histories or work with others on doing so. Interested in writing oral histories? You may find some valuable information in Dee's book.

Black Canyon's own Michael Sandford will sign copies of his books, which include the history of the one-time homestead and long-time restaurant Rock Springs. Rock Springs Cafe, renowned for its pies, was originally the homestead of the Warner family.

We'll have live music, too - Mr. Russ Lane will surely please with his covers of country favorites.  This is a free event, by the way, music included!

Mr. Russ Lane in action at the Horny Toad Restaurant in Cave Creek, October 2016
Copyright (c) MJ Miller

In case of that rare day that we don't have user-friendly weather, we'll move our outdoor event indoors. Don't let a little drizzle stop you from coming out to meet some amazing authors, fellow history buffs, and to do some Christmas shopping for the Arizona history enthusiast in your life!  Signed and personalized books make thoughtful and unexpected gifts. 

Heritage Park is at 33955 Old Black Canyon Highway right on the main drag in Black Canyon City.  Take either exit off I-17 into town. You'll see Heritage Park on the east side of the main road, across from Nora Jean's Coffee Kitchen. (They have great food and coffee at Nora Jean's, in case you bring your appetite.) 

Please support local history and the arts. Come on out and visit with us. The event will be followed by a stargazing event, also at the park. Arrive early and enjoy a leisurely walk around the pond, stop in at the museum, and make a day of it!



Saturday, November 19, 2016

An Afternoon at Orme Dam Victory Days Rodeo at Fort McDowell Yavapai Nation

Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller

For twenty five years a U.S. Cavalry post in Arizona territory, on April 10, 1890,  Fort McDowell transitioned to its role as a reservation for the Yavapai people. The government allotted the reservation more than 25,000 acres of land straddling the Verde River. The Yavapai farmed the land, eking out a living from crops and cattle, and formed a stable community in the river-fed desert northeast of Phoenix.

Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller


As the population of the now-state of Arizona grew, the need for water soared. By 1968, officials planned construction of a mile-long, billion-dollar dam to create a reservoir for the much-needed water. The dam - to be called Orme Dam - would offer flood control as well as a recreational lake. Backed by the Arizona Republic, influential Mayor Margaret Hance of Phoenix, and - at least initially - powerful politicians such as Senator Barry Goldwater, the dam would have had dire consequences for the Yavapai Nation. Over two-thirds of the reservation would be inundated, wiping out the critical Yavapai farm, ancestral burial grounds, bald eagle habitat, archaeological sites, and basically an entire community. The Yavapai were offered over 33 million dollars and 2,500 acres of land in exchange for leaving their homes and yielding their land. They refused.

Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller

The Yavapai people organized a lengthy - and ultimately successful - battle against the dam. Banding together to protest, they raised funds to send representatives to Washington. They participated in a three-day march to the state capitol in Phoenix. They convinced Senator Goldwater, Senator Dennis DeConcini, Representative John J. Rhodes, and other key Arizona politicians to back alternatives to the dam - and in November, 1981, Secretary of the Interior James Lee Watt announced the plans for Orme Dam had been withdrawn.

Today's Orme Dam Victory Days rodeo and PowWow annually celebrate the Yavapai victory over what would have been the sure destruction of their culture. Open to the public, the All-Indian rodeo brings top-ranked cowboys - and cowgirls - from not just distant corners of the United States but from Canada as well.


Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller


This bronc was particularly wild, eventually slamming his rider into the fence a split second after I took this photo. The cowboy was not seriously injured.


Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller

Rodeo royalty serve not only as ceremonial figureheads but also as working members of the rodeo event staff, ushering livestock from the arena.



Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller 






Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller
We were honored to join the Yavapai in their festivities today. All-Indian rodeos have grown to be my favorite rodeos for the community pride, the laid-back atmosphere, the inclusion of women's roping events, and the darned good cowboys and cowgirls who participate. 

Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller

The livestock - from the rope and barrel horses to the rough stock and even down to the last calf - were particularly healthy-looking, gorgeous animals, bright-eyed and glossy.

Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller

Copyright (c) Marcy J. Miller

The cowgirls rode hard. The cowgirls-in-training cheered them on and charmed the rest of us.

Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller

Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller

Rodeo is a family event and everyone in a rodeo family - from the elders to the toddlers - are involved. The young cowboy in the photos above and below already has a job releasing the calves from the tie-down roping event.

Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller

Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller

The two gorgeous girls above are Fort McDowell Royalty, Miss Fort McDowell Makayla Doka and Junior Miss Fort McDowell, Tara Smith.  Miss Doka grew up in a rodeo family - and she is the descendant of the late Robert Doka, who served the United States as a U.S. Marine in Korea before dedicating the remainder of his life to serving his community as police officer, tribal chairman, and one of the leading warriors in the fight against the Orme Dam.

The Orme Dam Victory Days festival is held every November in close proximity to the anniversary of the announcement the Yavapai had triumphed against the Orme Dam. Don't miss it. Plan on spending a day - not just at the rodeo, but make time to watch the gourd dancers, enjoy a Navajo taco, ride the carnival attractions, and shop the native crafts located near the PowWow tent - all with the sweeping backdrop of Four Peaks to the east.



Copyright (c) 2016 Marcy J. Miller * All rights reserved * No part of this content, including photographs, may be reproduced without permission * Links, however, may be freely shared and are appreciated * Thank you for linking, liking, loving, sharing, forwarding, tweeting, +1ing and otherwise helping grow my audience * Most of all, thank you for visiting and for sharing my love for this amazing state and its incredible people.